- SETTING PRESETS SIMPLIFY 3D UPGRADE
- SETTING PRESETS SIMPLIFY 3D SOFTWARE
- SETTING PRESETS SIMPLIFY 3D DOWNLOAD
For reference of program-specific Gcode scripts for your MAKEiT printer, please check the “Gcode Scripts for MAKEiT Printers” section belowĬlick here to download RepRap’s “GCode Cheat Sheet” with descriptions of many common commands as a viewable.
SETTING PRESETS SIMPLIFY 3D SOFTWARE
In some cases different software allows for different variables and codes to be used for scripting so not all scripts will work in all slicers without some adjustment. Not all slicing software will allow you to customize all of the Gcode scripting, and often it is hidden behind “advanced” settings when possible. It’s possible to use custom Gcode scripts to alter your printer’s startup procedure prior to prints, the end procedure following prints, to add custom functions between individual printed layers, to adjust retraction, to add special motions for multiple material printing, and more. Understanding Gcode can also be very helpful in diagnosing print errors to determine if they are hardware or software errors. There are specific Gcode commands for every type of action the printer can take, including changing temperatures, moving to a certain location, moving at a certain speed, extruding filament, etc.įor normal purposes most users won’t ever need to customize Gcode although advanced users might find benefits from doing so. Slicing software converts your 3D file into a long program which the printer follows to reproduce your part.
SETTING PRESETS SIMPLIFY 3D UPGRADE
Ender 3 upgrade to v2 silent board 4.2.7 and add BLTouch 3.Whether printing from SD card or directly to the printer’s USB connection, Gcode is the programming language that is used to control and command the printer.Nylon (Polyamide) – Requires high print temperatures, dry storage and warping issuesĢ50 – 260 C (Note requires upgrade to print head)Īdditionally, you should also be using a glue stickīook traversal links for Ender 3 Filament Settings This will help in the active cooling of layers and also prevent any stringing or blobs Any higher, and you risk clogging or extruder issues. If you still have stringing issues, increase the value by 0.2 mm at a time. Retraction distance: 3 mm should do it to start. Higher values of retraction will lead to filament winding up in the extruder. The recommended maximum speed is about 25-30 mm/s. TPU is a flexible material, and printing it fast will lead to problems, like the filament getting wound up in the extruder gear. You can also use a brim or a raft, but they’re not essential. TPU (Thermoplastic polyurethane) - flexible, excellent shock absorption, hard to extrude.Ī heated bed isn’t necessary, as TPU doesn’t shrink or warp, if you want, up to 60 ☌.īlue painter’s tape works just fine. Retraction speeds: A starting speed of 40 mm/s with 5 mm/s increments to dial it in. Retraction distance: Start with a 5 mm distance and increase in 0.2 mm increments. These settings should help you get going: PETG needs higher retraction than PLA, but go too high and you’ll clog the hot end. This can get trickier, and nobody wants stringing or blobs on their prints. PETG adheres very well to blue painter’s tape. Otherwise, you’ll be having a chunk of glass along with your part.
You must use a releasing agent on a glass surface for PETG. A bed temperature of 50-75 ☌ works well for PETG. It helps with adhesion and also reduces any warping. PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) - middle ground between PLA and ABS, being strong, temperature resistant, and easy to print. If it’s cooled down suddenly, it can warp Leave this off, since ABS likes to be cooled down gradually. Additionally, you should also be using a glue stick A raft or a brim helps in reducing the warping of the parts. Otherwise, you may find the corners of your prints lifted up. A bed temperature of 80-110 ☌ should do it.ĪBS needs some adhesion. This varies between 210-250 ☌.ĪBS is infamous for warping, but a heated bed does a good job of preventing this. Slightly challenging to printĪ printing temperature of 230 ☌ is a good starting point. PLA is a runny material, so it needs to be adequately cooled.ĪBS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) - Robust and durable material with high temperature and mechanical resistance. We only need to consider two factors here. They give your prints a good hold on the bed.Ī general recommended speed of 60 mm/s works great, balancing quality with printing time.Īs the Ender 3 has a Bowden style setup, retraction settings are much higher. When using glass, hairspray or glue stick work the best.
But for a smoother bottom surface, glass is a better option. The stock build surface on the Ender 3 provides excellent bed adhesion for PLA. Any higher and the PLA at the bottom might deform. PLA is a versatile material, hard brittle.Ī modest 20-60 ☌ helps a lot. But what does it take to print it on the Ender 3? Quite simply, nothing much. PLA (Polylactic acid) - Most common 3D printing material. Settings for Ender 3 for different filaments